The runway show, which began as a modest event hosted in European hotels and studios for fashion elites, has come a long way. With the rise of the internet and social media, collections have become more accessible than ever and designers are pushing the boundaries of their shows to stay relevant in the ebb and flow of promising fashion.
Luxury houses and emerging designers similarly made a full return to in-person shows and presentations, allowing this year’s fashion shows to fully showcase collections.
There was unprecedented creativity in men’s fashion and runway shows became more than just a sales pitch for clothing. They reached wider audiences and pushed boundaries to create unexpected, theatrical events.
However, the criteria for judgment have also changed. While the clothes are of course important, the venues, creativity, and overall cultural impact are now also considered by the fashion crowd.
Despite all these changes, the excitement of seeing collections unfold in order, depicting a story, and predicting the direction of men’s fashion for the coming season, and perhaps even the seasons to come, remains.
The Saint Laurent Spring 2023 Collection
Considering how much Yves Saint Laurent has revised and shaped the aesthetic of Morocco, there was a historic destination show here. The location chosen by Anthony Vaccarello, the Agafay desert an hour outside of Marrakech, left many in awe of the beauty beyond this world.
Celine Spring 2023
As Blackpink’s Lalise Manobal and BTS member Kim Tae-hyung (known as V) wave from the balcony like members of the royal family, the K-pop frenzy overshadows Hedi Slimane’s finely crafted rock star collection. However, even when LVMH luxury boss Bernard Arnault stands up to take a film, the clothes clearly take a back seat.
Louis Vuitton Fall 2022
If there’s a lesson that Virgil Abloh has taught the fashion industry, it’s that boundless imagination pays off. The designer’s final menswear collection for Louis Vuitton encompassed childhood themes and surrealist touches from throughout his eight collections for the French luxury house.
Dior Pre-Fall 2023
The collection of the French fashion house was displayed in a breathtaking setting, in front of the Giza pyramids after sunset, setting a new standard for destination shows in the post-pandemic era. As models emerged on a burning horizon strip like spectral dots, the three pyramids were illuminated one after the other, with their edges outlined in white against the pitch-black sky. Jones, eager to avoid potential accusations of cultural appropriation, based 75 looks on the Dior women’s archives.
Prada Fall 2022
Actors Jeff Goldblum, Kyle MacLachlan, and Asa Butterfield walked in the Prada show, which focused on “clothes that make people feel important.” These characters marched confidently in front of the audience, appearing strong in combinations of basic tailoring and work attire.
Zegna Spring 2023
The spring collection, shown on the roof of a multi-story wool factory at the Oasi Zegna center, 90 minutes away from Milan, continued to challenge the vision of the Italian menswear brand and what it believes is relevant. As shirts turned into jackets and jackets turned into shirts, this hybrid function wardrobe added modernity to the basic elements, while the designer developed the ability to mix and match inner and outer layers.